Edwardian
Jewellery
Edwardian
jewellery comes from the period dating 1901-15. Edward VII had ascended
the throne following the death of his mother Queen Victoria. He
and his wife Alexandra set the tone for the Belle Epoque period,
a time where elegance and fashion became prominent vaues for society.
This was a time of considerable wealth particularly among the upper
and middle classes; the automobile, airplane and movie industries
were born. Edward died in 1910, however the stylistic term known
as ‘Edwardian’ continues until the start of World War
One.
Fashion during this period drew its inspiration from the Fench Courts-
the feminine S-shape prevailed and clothing took on an almost ethereal
lightness with layers of delicate fabrics, and the use of lace and
feathers. White on white and pale pastels were the dominant colours
and the demand for jewellery to match grew in popularity.
Platinum enabled the creation of invisible settings because of its
strength. Very little netal was needed to hold a gemstone in place
and this setting complemented fashion’s look. Jewellery made
with saw-piercings and filigree techniques matched the lacy trimmings
of the clothes. White gold alloys were developed as a less expensive
alternative, and as a substitute for platinum (considered a strategic
metal) during WWI.
Diamonds
and pears were favoured for their white on white colour scheme,
particularly when they were used in a platinum setting. Eighteenth
century decorative motifs like swags, bows, ribbons, tassels, wreaths
and flower garlands were mirrored in the style of the jewellery
being designed, typifying its neo-classical and Rococo influences.
Fashio also dictated jewellery styles: upswept hair and high collars
for day-wear and low necklines for the evening emphasized the head
and neck so pendants and lavalieres were widely popular, particularly
the negligee pendant which consisted of two drops of unequal length
suspended from a central element. Circle brooches as well as those
shaped like stars or crescents were also very popular.
When
Edward toured India, Alexandra developed a keen interest in the
style of the Indian princesses, or Maharajas. This exotic influence
started a fashion for diamond aigrettes (feathers worn as hair ornamnets);
sautoirs (long ropes of pearls or chain ending in a tassel); and
chokers, or "dog collars" (one of Alexandra's favorite
styles). A favorite stone of Alexandra's, amethyst was often included
in jewelry of the era. The combination of these violet stones with
white pearls and green peridots represented the colors of the suffragette
movment; the "g," "w," and "v" stood
for "give women the vote."
Diamond engagement rings from this time period are extremely popular.
These engagement rings often feature filigree detail, and contain
antique diamonds such as the Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut diamonds.
The rings are typically made of platinum or white gold. Filigree
diamond earrings and necklaces, and white gold and platinum wedding
bands, are the ideal complement to such engagement rings.
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