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Edwardian Jewellery


Edwardian JewelleryEdwardian jewellery comes from the period dating 1901-15. Edward VII had ascended the throne following the death of his mother Queen Victoria. He and his wife Alexandra set the tone for the Belle Epoque period, a time where elegance and fashion became prominent vaues for society. This was a time of considerable wealth particularly among the upper and middle classes; the automobile, airplane and movie industries were born. Edward died in 1910, however the stylistic term known as ‘Edwardian’ continues until the start of World War One.

Fashion during this period drew its inspiration from the Fench Courts- the feminine S-shape prevailed and clothing took on an almost ethereal lightness with layers of delicate fabrics, and the use of lace and feathers. White on white and pale pastels were the dominant colours and the demand for jewellery to match grew in popularity.

Platinum enabled the creation of invisible settings because of its strength. Very little netal was needed to hold a gemstone in place and this setting complemented fashion’s look. Jewellery made with saw-piercings and filigree techniques matched the lacy trimmings of the clothes. White gold alloys were developed as a less expensive alternative, and as a substitute for platinum (considered a strategic metal) during WWI.

Edwardian JewelleryDiamonds and pears were favoured for their white on white colour scheme, particularly when they were used in a platinum setting. Eighteenth century decorative motifs like swags, bows, ribbons, tassels, wreaths and flower garlands were mirrored in the style of the jewellery being designed, typifying its neo-classical and Rococo influences.

Fashio also dictated jewellery styles: upswept hair and high collars for day-wear and low necklines for the evening emphasized the head and neck so pendants and lavalieres were widely popular, particularly the negligee pendant which consisted of two drops of unequal length suspended from a central element. Circle brooches as well as those shaped like stars or crescents were also very popular.

Edwardian JewelleryWhen Edward toured India, Alexandra developed a keen interest in the style of the Indian princesses, or Maharajas. This exotic influence started a fashion for diamond aigrettes (feathers worn as hair ornamnets); sautoirs (long ropes of pearls or chain ending in a tassel); and chokers, or "dog collars" (one of Alexandra's favorite styles). A favorite stone of Alexandra's, amethyst was often included in jewelry of the era. The combination of these violet stones with white pearls and green peridots represented the colors of the suffragette movment; the "g," "w," and "v" stood for "give women the vote."

Diamond engagement rings from this time period are extremely popular. These engagement rings often feature filigree detail, and contain antique diamonds such as the Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut diamonds. The rings are typically made of platinum or white gold. Filigree diamond earrings and necklaces, and white gold and platinum wedding bands, are the ideal complement to such engagement rings.

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